“I just had a God-given talent for making people beautiful” were the simple yet powerful words of glam designer Zelda Wynn Valdes, describing her creative gift. Famously credited with designing the Playboy Bunny suit, Valdes was an esteemed costume designer who fashioned svelte garments worn by countless starlets and performers throughout the second half of the twentieth century. A resilient avant-garde, she overcame the intense racial barriers that were cemented in her time, all while regularly celebrating the natural curves of a woman in nearly all of her creations. And although some giant corporation may not be around to bear her name, the world should never forget this moving story of a woman who built her legacy one costume at a time.
An Artistic Foundation
Born in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania, sometime around June 1905 (the exact date is still unclear), Zelda Christian Barbour (the origin of “Wynn Valdes” is unknown) was one of seven children born to James and Blanche Barbour. And while it’s unclear where exactly she grew up, it’s clear enough as to how she grew up. Spending her early years at the Catholic Conservatory of Music, Valdes was trained in classical piano, reaching a notable proficiency by the age of 13. But it was her skill of sewing, which she picked up from her mother and grandmother, that would shape her destiny. After snagging a lowly job as a stockgirl at a posh boutique, she worked her way up the ladder to where she could finally put her skills to use as a tailor.
Zelda Wynn
In 1948, around her late forties, Valdes opened her own dressmaking and design studio called Zelda Wynn. It was here that she would start selling her designs—which sold for up to $1000—to a rather glamorous clientele, including, but certainly not limited to, Dorothy Dandridge, Gladys Knight, Mae West, Josephine Baker, and many more. Later that year, she also designed the full bridal attire for Nat King Cole’s wedding to his second wife, Maria Cole. And in 1949, she was selected as President of the National Association of Fashion Accessory Designers’ (an organization dedicated to aiding black women to succeed in the fashion industry) New York chapter.
But her most significant impact came through her time styling stars on the grand stage. Valdes’ sensual designs adorned the likes of Eartha Kitt, Ella Fitzgerald, and, most notably, Joyce Bryant. In fact, Valdes’ gowns helped spark a transformation in Bryant’s appearance and image, intertwining the two ladies’ legacies and marking a clear era in both their careers. As for her journey with Ella Fitzgerald, a long-term client, Valdes actually completed most of the diva’s garments from a distance, imagining her measurements rather than doing any concrete sizing. This string of successes is said to have led Hugh Hefner to commission her to craft waitress outfits for the ladies of his Playboy Club (though this fact remains fairly debated).
The Eternal Flame
Throughout the 1960s,Valdes went on to use her fashion prowess and newfound influence to pour back into the community. She taught costume design to youth in Harlem and later co-founded the Harlem Youth Orchestra with Lester Wilson. Then in 1970, she was asked by decorated dancer Arthur Mitchell to tour and design costumes for the Dance Theater of Harlem, a position she would keep and maintain for over twenty years. Valdes is even credited with being the first designer to give African-American ballet dancers tights that matched their skin tones, rather than the typical pink ones originally meant for Caucasian dancers.
Though her business closed in 1989, Zelda Wynn Valdes continued her passion for design until her final days, passing on September 26, 2001. But despite living the life of a storied trailblazer, it wasn’t until recent years that Valdes or any of her work was truly recognized on a (somewhat) large scale. In 2024, the Metropolitan Museum of Art released an article highlighting her collaboration with Joyce Bryant. In 2019, The New York Times published an almost 20-year post-mortem obituary in an attempt to finally shine a light on culture-pushing African Americans who were never given their proper respect. Luckily, with celebrities like Zendaya and Gigi Hadid wearing Zelda Wynn-inspired gowns to the 2025 Met Gala—both clearly and subtly showing their respects—perhaps things are finally starting to look up.
XOXO,
Your Fashion Bestie
Featured photos – The MET
