Fashion photography is an art that can capture many different moods and perspectives. Every photographer has their own unique style that they incorporate within their photos. I had the joy of interviewing one of the faces behind the camera, the talented Frank Rocco, a professional fashion and beauty photographer in New York City. Frank not only specializes in fashion and beauty but also in portraits and figure photography. He has been taking pictures for a long time, as he has an immense passion for taking photographs, whether it be at a fashion show, a set-up studio shoot, or teaching photography classes. I was able to ask Frank a series of questions, and he shared his journey with photography along with sharing his creativity and insight with anyone who is interested in photography.
How did you get into fashion photography?
I got into fashion photography in school. I was working full-time shooting mostly portraits, but enrolled in photography classes to have access to a darkroom. By the time I was finished with my coursework at FIT, I had taken a photo-styling class and medium-format photography classes, which leaned heavily on fashion. By then, my portfolio was almost all fashion. Although I really liked the technical aspects and challenges of large format photography and table-top still-life, I always loved interacting with people. Fashion photography allowed me to be creative in some of the same ways that still-life photography would and gave me the opportunity to work with creative people. Models are a huge part of the creative process and contribute a lot more than they get credit for.
How would you describe your photographic style?
For commercial shoots, I shoot clean images and love to work with creative stylists. For more editorial shoots, anything goes, but I think the style that is consistent in my work still shows through.
You’ve shot at a number of fashion shows and events. Which has been your favorite and why?
The show that sticks in my head from this season is Laquan Smith. He is always at the forefront of the industry and continues to innovate and produce amazing shows every season.
What do you love most about photography?
I love so many aspects of photography, including planning, problem-solving, lighting, directing, and working on images all the way to the end of editing. It’s great to work with teams, including stylists, hair and makeup artists, models, producers and creatives. I love capturing images and am always happy when I’m shooting.
How do you know when to capture the perfect picture?
I don’t think I know I have a special image until I start working on it, though sometimes I can just get a glimpse of the back of the camera or on a laptop and think “that might be a great one”.
What is your favorite picture you have ever taken?
I don’t have a favorite image of all time, but there are a handful that I think are really special. Sometimes those even end up printed very large and on a wall.
Is there anything or anyone who inspires your work?
Many of the greats of our time have been producing so many images that we have seen repeatedly and they all affect our reality. I love looking at images and just finished judging a photo contest, looking at thousands of images. Some are not special enough to make the cut. Some are so amazing that they stick in my memory and may affect and influence me for years. I often refer to one of my student’s prints when I’m teaching other classes. He may not have known what “rules” he was breaking at the time, but he did it so well, I suggest that his image should be hanging in MOMA.
What are some struggles you face as a fashion photographer?
One of the biggest struggles for most photographers is balancing their quest for creativity with running a business. The everyday grind of running any business can detract from the artistry and can overwhelm any full-time photographer.
Which camera model is your favorite when taking photos?
I don’t have a favorite camera. Whatever camera I use is just a tool. I think people get hung up with the tools, which (for the most part) all do the same thing. One of my favorites that I ever owned was my Hasselblad 503CM. It was a well-built machine and the lenses were fantastic! I found a way to use them on my digital cameras, but just for experiments and fun shoots. They slow me down too much to use on a job.
Do you have any advice for others who aspire to become a fashion photographer?
For any photographers starting up now, my advice would be to learn as much as you can including how to use software and AI. I would also suggest that having a community to rely on is vital. If you are in school, make sure you stay connected with your peers. I would also recommend joining a trade organization like The American Society of Media Photographers (ASMP). It is never too early to join and make yourself known, even as an assistant or student.
Visit Frank’s website and Instagram to see more of his work.
XOXO,
Your fashion bestie