After the passing of Thierry Mugler in January 2022, few anticipated that the House of Mugler would persist with its success. However, the French brand’s resurgence on the January 2023 runway under the direction of its creative head, Casey Cadwallader, showcased its enduring potential.
Luxury houses like YSL, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, and Chanel have all navigated the loss of their founders and demonstrated that their brands need not be buried beside them. From mourning and pain emerges the ability to preserve a legacy that transcends mortality, particularly when tied to icons who revolutionized an entire industry.
Indeed, one may even refer to Mugler’s achievements with the Fall/Winter 2023 collection as an “eternal success.” With Cadwallader at the helm, Mugler’s return to the catwalk after almost three years has been praised by industry insiders. Cadwallader’s leadership has affirmed the brand’s commitment to Mugler’s vision of empowered and erotic femininity. Through the incorporation of daring cut-outs, suggestive silhouettes, and an artful fusion of black, leather, and lace, Cadwallader perpetuates Mugler’s concept of commanding femininity while injecting his distinct touch of simplicity and diversification.
All photos from: MFH
The brand has demonstrated that while Thierry was the heartbeat of the brand, talent permeates from diverse sources. Cadwallader effectively assembled a team that grasped and executed his vision. Behind the brand lies a team of talented individuals—creators and designers—capable of sustaining the revolutionary vision set by its ambassador. Their extensive collaboration with Thierry likely equipped them to discern his would-be preferences and evoke his pride, even in his physical absence.
The American Casey Cadwallader, who was hired in 2018 as Mugler’s new creative director, was thus able to effectively step into Thierry’s shoes. After earning his architecture degree, all he needed was an internship at Marc Jacobs to inspire him to pursue fashion. Approaching his five-year milestone at Mugler, Cadwallader unequivocally demonstrates that the brand’s historical and contemporary chapters have the potential to achieve parallel success and reconcile the old with the new.
Among Thierry Mugler’s most renowned creations is the striking black cut-out gown worn by Demi Moore in 1993’s “Indecent Proposal”.
The wet and dripping water-inspired latex dress for the 2019 Met Gala worn by Kim Kardashian, Cardi B’s Autumn/Winter 1995 attire, and Kylie Jenner’s Python Halloween Costume in 2020.
Cadwallader’s creations have lately been specifically adopted under the Mugler label, with Dua Lipa wearing his creations on tour, Ashley Park wearing his neon suit in the series Emily in Paris, and this look worn by Beyonce on a night out in July 2022.
Evidently, despite the void left by the passing of Thierry Mugler, what emerges is that an individual’s devotion, love, and passion for another’s creative work can demonstrate the enduring power of a name, regardless of circumstances.
Cadwallader adeptly harnessed this sentiment, possessing the eye and the skills to impress and rejuvenate the brand. Today, over a year after the commemoration of Mugler’s passing, Cadwallader remains determined to carry the torch forward and will reveal its 2024 spring collection at Paris Fashion Week on October 2nd.
In an interview, Adrian Corsin, managing director of the brand, expounded on the brand’s new strategy. The intention is to reestablish Mugler’s presence among the industry’s giants by launching four collections annually, including two new pre-collections. This approach involves a step back from the “see now, buy now” model, allowing space for creativity, consumer feedback, and adaptation to the contemporary moment. This move towards selectivity adds an element of anticipation, impatience, and exclusivity to the brand’s offerings.
Although Thierry Mugler’s physical presence may have departed, his creative spirit and daring vision continue to be the guiding threads that propel the brand’s evolution. As his successor and his teams build upon his foundation, they not only honor his memory but also demonstrate the true essence of fashion: an art form that thrives on both its roots and its ability to bloom anew. In this way, Thierry Mugler’s brand reminds us that while individuals may pass, the true mark of a fashion icon is the indelible impression they leave upon the tapestry of time.
